Here's a couple of my favourite tricks to make things just a little bit easier.
Place the bezel on a bed of rice or sand so that it sits level. The bezel will easily press into the grains surrounding it for support.
Place the bezel over a cavity. Here I'm using a plastic mould tray with deep cavities. Make sure the bezel is supported on the flat surface. This one will slide around a little bit but it's still a good solution if you have nothing else around.
But I've kept the best until last - my favourite tip for working with the Klik bezels is.....
I'm using an offcut from an interlocking foam mat which is thick enough to accommodate the snap base.
Here's how to turn it into a really stable support for your resin bezel.
Press the snap into the foam so that it leaves an impression.
Press the points of scissors into the foam (to the depth of the snap) at the edge of the impression and cut 2 slits diagonally across the impression.
It should look like this.
Trim away the area between the corners holding the blades at about a 45° angle.
It will be a little bit messy but that's OK.
Insert the snap into the hole......
......and test it for fit. I like it to be snug enough that you can hold it upside down without the Klik snap falling out.
And now you have a really stable platform for holding that bezel in place whilst you work on it.
You can use polystyrene foam or florists foam in place of the compressed foam and you may not even have to do any trimming. But for me, the re-useability of the compressed foam wins hands down.
See this related post:
How to keep the dome level in post back earrings
If you found these ideas useful, PIN IT!
Happy Resining!
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