Not too hot... Not too cold...
It needs to be JUST RIGHT!
If your resin is below these temperatures, it will affect the curing of the resin.
We'll get into the effects that cold has on resin in a moment but before that, let's look at what makes resin turn from a liquid state into a solid.
Once the resin and hardener are measured out in the right ratio and mixed together, a chemical reaction occurs. This chemical reaction produces heat (known as an exothermic reaction), and it's the heat that's generated that causes the resin to cure. Without heat, the two parts would stay liquid.
So if you're working in a space where the temperature is way below the recommended room temperature, the heat generated from the exothermic reaction will dissipate from the resin and the curing process will slow down or STOP.
And if the room is warmer than the optimum temperature, the curing process will speed up. And this is why getting the room temperature right is so important!
But it doesn't end there. There are other issues caused by working with resin in cold temperatures and mixing cold resin:
- The resin and hardener will become more viscous (thicker), making it much harder to measure the two parts accurately, especially if one part is thick like honey.
- When you mix cold resin and hardener together, you'll stir in a LOT of bubbles (and nobody wants bubbles!)
- Mixing cold resin also creates microscopic bubbles. They're so small and light that they can't rise to the surface in the thicker resin, giving the resin a cloudy or foggy look.
- The resin will take a lot longer to cure. Or worse, it might not cure at all!
- On artworks, it can cause surface imperfections like dimples, instead of a smooth, glossy finish.
Tips for Avoiding Cold Resin
- Store your resin in a warm place inside the house rather than in the garage or shed where the resin would be exposed to cold temperatures.
- Keep it off cold concrete and tiled floors too.
- If your bottles of resin feel cool or cold to the touch, place them in a warm-to-hot water bath for 10 minutes (see how to do it down below).
- Use a heater to increase the room temperature for the whole of the curing period (not just while you're working with resin).
- In the winter months, you might find your epoxy has crystalised and it has a grainy or milky look. Or it may have even solidified completely. This is a normal occurrence for epoxy that has been exposed to extremely cold or freezing temperatures for an extended period of time.
Don't panic if this has happened to your resin because warming it up will bring it back to a pourable consistency.
Try placing the resin in front of a radiator or space heater to bring it back to room temperature. Check on it frequently to see how it's going.
To prevent it from overheating, keep some distance between the heat source and the resin.
How to Get Resin Temperatures Right 👌
- a digital thermometer to check the room temperature; and
- an infrared thermometer so I can measure the temperature of the resin and hardener before I mix them together.
- Use a reptile heating mat with a temperature adjustment dial. Place your bottles of resin on the mat and let the resin slowly warm up. This can make a huge difference to the viscosity of your resin, making it easier to measure, and easier to mix with fewer bubbles.
- The quickest and easiest method is to warm the resin up in a warm water bath.
How hot? Well, it should be hot enough that you can put your hand in it for a few seconds without burning yourself.
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Very informative. I'm new to this craft so any info is great.
ReplyDeleteGlad it's helped.
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I am getting lines on the fronts of my resin pieces that look like cracks. Any idea what I may be doing wrong? Would cold weather have something to do with it?
ReplyDeleteIt is possibly an amine blush which is caused by low temperature and humidity. Or the crazing can be caused by over-torching the resin to pop surface bubbles.
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